Know your Suit!

Know your suit! Peaked vs. Notched lapels

If you’re like most men, you pick your suit based on how it looks and how it fits. You know what you like, and you know what feels good, but that is about as far as many of us ever go. In truth, it is not necessary to know all of the how’s and they why’s and the what’s that go into the makeup of what you wear. After all, there are people who make a career out of worrying about this sort of thing so that you don’t have to. But remaining completely ignorant of what you put on your back is akin to knowing nothing about the car you drive. Unacceptable! Any self respecting man ought to be able to open his hood and explain the basics of how the internal combustion engine works. The same should be true for one’s attire.

I am not saying that a man should tailor his own cloths or know the ins and outs of bolts of cloth, but being able to tell a tailor what you want in how you dress will not only gain you a knowing smile and a nod, but also make the entire process of bespoke clothing far more enjoyable and simple.

Volumes could be written on the intricacies and nuances of a well cut suit. I will not bore you with such a tome. Instead, I’ll offer a few pieces of information to keep you informed, possibly adding on at various intervals to keep things interesting. We can begin with what is often the first thing noticed about a suit, yet rarely actually noted: The lapels.

There are two major types of lapels that one typically sees on a suit, the Notched lapel and the peaked lapel. Sartorial purists will note that I am omitting a shawl collar. Though a smooth, and clean look, the shawl collar is far more prevalent on tuxedos, and only very rarely on a suit or sport coat. As such, it is not germane to this discussion.

A lapel is notched when its line is broken by a deep V cut into the side. These are identical on each side, and usually around a third of the way down the lapel.

Notched Lapel

A peak, on the other hand, does not offer a smooth line, and contains a cut in the fabric where a barb or peak points upward from the lapel. These types of lapels were far more common back in the day than they are now, but they add an air of formality to a suit.



Peaked lapel

Upon inspection – because yes, I had to look – every suit in my closet has a notched lapel. This is the standard, go-to cut of a suit these days, and while you don’t have to go out of your way to find a peaked lapel, they are much less common. A peaked lapel is a throwback to the days of the wider collars, and can be seen adorning some double breasted suits. This could serve well to an add an old fashioned or classic flair to your attire. They are just as likely to be found on a tuxedo jacket as a shawl or notched collar, and the ridged lines of a peaked may be exactly what you’re looking for.

Wear what is right for you, but know what you wear, and why.

 

Comisario Tequila Anejo

 

Comisario Tequila Anejo

Tequila, like many hard liquors, has gotten a bad reputation from ignorant young people who don’t know how to drink, or appreciate a good spirit. Good tequila, and especially an Anejo, is not to be taken in a shot glass, and certainly doesn’t need a chaser. It deserves to be sipped, savored, and caressed, to be appreciated and enjoyed. Comisario Tequila’s oak aged Anejo is one of the finest of such tequilas that I have had.

With a deep gold color, and an immediate nose of pepper and agave, the Comisario Anejo lets you know right of the bat what you’re getting into. The nose is fierce and stinging, which gives way to the familiar bite that we all know comes with tequila. Where this anejo differs though, is how it smooths out in your mouth. What begins as a sharp tingling gives way to a soft, smooth, warming as it slides down, leaving behind notes of pepper, caramel, and oak.

Berger & Argenti Mooch

Berger & Argenti Mooch

The Berger & Argenti Mooch is a cigar that has been in my humidor for quite some time now, and I had just never had occasion to smoke it. I am not overly familiar with B&A cigars, and truthfully was just introduced to them by a brand rep less than a year ago who goes by the name Cigar Man Andy (look him up, you won’t be disappointed) I had smoked a few with him on occasion, and although good, the light hearted and pleasant company kept me from paying too much attention to my smoke, and this may be why I always thought of the Berger & Argenti sticks as good cigars, but not particular stand outs. The Mooch, however, has redefined my opinion of the brand.

Light in color, with a Connecticut shade wrapper, the long, lean Mooch was light and soft to the touch, giving, with hardly any oils. The pre light aroma was nuanced and delightful, with notes of cedar, caramel, heavy cream, and coffee.

The cigar lit up easily, with a light, easy draw that was open and smooth. There was an immediate wave of flavor, though layered, and subtle. The medium bodied smoke contained a complex taste of toasted sugar, cream, and toasted almonds, though without being nutty. This cigar was smooth and sweet, while mild and nuanced.  Far too complex to be a beginner’s smoke, despite its light and flavorful smoke, the intricacies would be lost on those not already accustomed to the leaf. Paired with a decent Chilean Carmenere, I was careful to keep the wine and the cigar separate, else the one influence the other. This is a smoke that will definitely have to find a place in my humidor, and would be a good way for intermediate or advanced smokers to refine and expand their palette.

Why Hiring a Veteran Could Be The Best Thing You do for Your Business.

 

According to the latest numbers by the Iraq and Afghanistan Veterans of America (IAVA) and Businessweek, there are nearly half a million unemployed veterans in the United States. The unemployment rate for this highly respected and qualified subset of America far exceeds that of their same age, race, and educational demographics that have not served, and this is truly a crime. The unemployment rate for veterans age 18-24 is over 30% as compared to 15.3% for non-vets in the same age group. What is worse is that the trend keeps going. More and more veterans are becoming unemployed, all while more and more non-vets are getting jobs. This is a huge pool of untapped talent that many employers simply have never even considered for their open positions. True enough, it can be daunting for an interviewer to look down at a resume laced with bullets points about, well, bullets. I mean what does leading a fire-team in combat, being honor graduate from a long range reconnaissance course, or writing training plans for an infantry battalion have to do with honest work in respectable society? Quite a bit, I assure you. In fact, hiring a veteran could be the best thing that you could do for your business.

                Lets overlook the obvious advantages – the $2500 tax credits that can be applied to your company’s returns for hiring a soldier, the federal programs covering a percentage of your newly employed veteran’s salary, the vocational training programs to ensure your new employee is well versed in the most up to date business practices, or the myriad of state and local programs designed to aid and reward businesses that employ veterans. Any CFO or Human Resources director worth their weight would already know this, and right or wrong, let us assume that they do. Lets also overlook the moral obligation that we, as a society, may, and ought to feel toward those among us who raised their right hand and pledged to give their life, if necessary, supporting our nation during a decade of war. These men and women come home from enduring unimaginable hardships and are often ostracized, labeled, mistrusted, and cast out by the very society they have been fighting for. We can overlook this obligation because of course our readers would have the moral fortitude to do the right thing, take a chance, and offer more to our returning veterans than a half hearted “thank you for your service” that drips more of disdain and pity rather than admiration and respect. All of this should go without saying, and to be honest, employing a veteran is its own reward. This article, however, is about the skills and experience that those who have served can offer to the modern business world.

                I have said in the past the translating military skills and experience into civilian jobs requires a bit of creative interpretation, but this does not mean that one has to use their imagination or make things up. What are some of the most basic qualities and characteristics that employers say they want in the people they hire? Show up on time, work well in a team, take responsibility for their actions, get results, actually do their job… oddly enough, there is a large portion of the employed population for which these simple characteristics are completely foreign.  I am not going to deign to make assumptions about the current crop of entry level employees, but what I have observed in the business world from the entitlement generation is not promising. 

                Don’t get me wrong – I have been fortunate enough to work for two Fortune 500 companies, including my current position, and the level of dedication and competence by the vast majority of their staff is exceptional. Veterans cannot fool ourselves into thinking that our military service gives us a monopoly on hard work and drive in today’s society, because that simply is not the case. There can be no resting on one’s laurels, and military experience is no substitute for knowledge base and required skills or prerequisites.

                But at the same time, much of what we offer is intangible. They are necessary additions to the successful function of any business, and while often overlooked as a given, they are most certainly not. There are many similar essays out there on the leadership qualities of veterans, and how they can help push a business to the next level. There are even more on veterans’ stellar performance under pressure, and how the rigors of combat shape them into steady, confident citizens. All of this is well known. What is not often discussed, though, is their resourcefulness, their drive and determination, and the fact that for most of us out there, failure is simply not an option.

                A veteran will do what it takes to get the job done. If they aren’t familiar with a computer program, they will learn it. If they’ve never driven a particular fork lift, they will figure it out. If a deadline is looming and everyone at the office is too tired, a veteran is the kind of person who will put on the coffee, pound and energy drink (possibly a Rip It), and get the job done, whether they are particularly vested in that project or not. In the military, we train to standard, not to time, and there are two ways to do anything: The Right Way, and Again. This “Good enough for government work” stereotype comes from bureaucracies, not from the uniformed services. If we are wrong, people die.

Blind obedience is also a myth. There is this ridiculous concept that men and women in the military do what they are told, no matter what, and cannot function without orders. It is true that those who have worn the uniform see the world slightly differently than others, but we see challenges to be overcome, and problems to be solved. We are intelligent and resourceful, creative and confident. If there is an issue, we will deal with it, and not rely on a supervisor to tell us how.

                We show up on time. We work late if we have to. We don’t complain (because hey, it could ALWAYS be worse) We do our jobs, and we know the duties of our superiors, so if necessary, we can do their jobs too. We don’t get rattled, we don’t get stressed, and we set an example for those around us. As GEN George Patton famously said “I am a soldier, I fight where I am told, and I win where I fight” – the same is true today, both on and off the battlefield. Veterans are not used to failure, and more often than not, it is simply an unacceptable outcome.  There are many in the business world that are willing to “Take a loss and move on.”  Not us. There is a reason why those who wear the US Army’s Ranger Tab declare that they will “Fight on to the ranger objective, though I be the lone survivor” – Veterans don’t quit. This is not to say we cannot recognize a bad decision or situation. After all, the first rule of battle for hundreds of years has been to “never reinforce failure.” It means we consider a different approach, a different angle, or if our position IS untenable, we still find a way to complete our objective. Being tactically flexible is not something that is taught in business school.

                The learning curve for veterans is far shorter than with other demographics. Most of my evidence is anecdotal, and taken through experience, but there are dozens of surveys and statistics that show veterans as being better students in college and with a quicker grasp of foreign concepts – be it a foreign language, or a computer program. Veterans learn quickly, and they figure things out on their own. They do what they need to do to get the job done, and more often than not, they will surprise and employer.

                Far too often I have gone into interviews and been told “Thank you for your service, but you’re not what we’re looking for” with a resume that is far more business oriented than many I know. Some employers see military service as a liability rather than the mark of distinction that it truly is. They don’t see that a solid veteran in their position can lift up those around them, and bring the entire team to a higher level. 

                 If you’re a veteran, then you and I both know that your real resume is written on your face. It is in the set of your jaw, and the firmness of your handshake. It is in how you carry yourself, and how you treat those around you. I know that you can, and will, get the job done, but it will take more than that to get hired. It is up to you to put those skills on paper, and to convince someone of it who may have a very disillusioned view of the world you have come from. It is daunting, but it is not impossible. If you are an employer who cannot see beyond the stigmas and stereotypes of the uniform they used to wear, then in the long run, it is simply your loss, but right now, as our nation stands today, it affects us all. Besides, hiring a veteran might just be the best thing you can do for your business.

Rocky Patel, The Edge, Maduro

 

Rocky Patel The Edge, maduro

Immediate impression was that this cigar had a great feel and texture. The gorgeous Maduro finish was almost black, and not without a certain shine to it. The prelight aroma was deep leather and hard oak. It opened with a good, heavy flavor. There was a high volume of smoke, with an immediate flavor of oiled leather and hard woods. Though it lit well at first, with a smooth, clear draw, there were some issues as it burned. I had some runs throughout the stick, and one side clearly burned more heavily. This cigar takes excellent marks for flavor and smoke, but poor marks on construction, at least on this one.

Oliva Serie V, 6 x 56 Torpedo

Oliva Serie V, 6 x 56 torpedo

The first time that I had an Oliva Serie V, it was right after they were released, and my cigar was lit by none other than Representative Jose Oliva… before the election, of course.  I make this statement in the interest of full disclosure, as hanging out with the guy who made your cigar will always influence the way you appreciate it. Add to that the fact that Jose is an intelligent, eloquent, and charismatic individual, and you can pretty much ensure that you’ll have a loyal fan for life. That is where I stand with Oliva Cigars and the Serie V in particular.

Oliva cigars are known for their consistency and excellent construction. No frills or extras, just high quality tobacco in a high quality cigar. The Serie V is no exception; an excellent smoke with a dark Nicaraguan wrapper – not quite a maduro – that is smooth and giving, with just a touch of oil. This particular cigar lit well, but was hard on the draw – a characteristic of a lot of torpedo shapes, as the taper at the tip sometimes closes the tobacco. There was the taste of soft leather that was far more subtle than I remember it. Smooth grain and cedar notes rounded out the flavor. The burn was slow and even – owing partially to the hard draw, but allowing the puro to be really savored. The smoke was thick and rich, with an excellent aroma of toasted almonds.

It is hard to find an unkind word to say about a cigar that I am so fond of, but I had trouble keeping this one lit. This goes back to the hard draw, and it was a bit annoying. Typing while I smoke doesn’t help, but no matter the cause, I absolutely hate relighting a cigar. I’m glad that this case wasn’t my first experience with an Oliva, because it may have kept me from enjoying so many in my time as a fan. It definitely will not affect my affection for the brand, and the Serie V is highly recommended.

Knob Creek Single Barrel: Kentucky Bourbon

Knob Creek Single Barrel Kentucky Bourbon

With a deep, rich amber color, the Knob Creek Single Barrel is a bourbon that I had been waiting to try. A big fan of bourbons in general, Knob Creek has a reputation behind it that made it one to look forward to.

Opening with an aroma of ripe grains and honey, it is stiff, pungent, and strong on the nose. The deep brown color show it’s age and maturity. A bourbon’s color, lovingly hued in the charred oak barrels of Kentucky, is not unlike gray hair, or finish wear on a pistol. It’s a mark of distinction, and one you can’t fake.

The taste comes off warm and sweet, with grain on the tip, giving way to dark fruit and a distinct nuttiness on the palette. It has a round, smooth mouth feel, with a lingering chewiness that I have come to expect from a good bourbon.

Lighter than the color and aroma would lead you to believe, this whiskey is not without its bite. There is a strong tingle on the back half, and a warming spice going down the throat.

It is hard to go wrong with a bourbon of this caliber, and Knob Creek Single Barrel did not disappoint. I look forward to my next opportunity to try it.